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Index »
Radio Paradise/General »
General Discussion »
Calling DIY'ers... in re: electrical wiring...
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Page: Previous 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 Next |
Red_Dragon
Location: Dumbf*ckistan
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Posted:
Sep 12, 2014 - 6:52am |
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islander wrote: We always take the path of least resistance. Our capacity for distraction is unlimited.
ooooohm
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islander
Location: West coast somewhere Gender:
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Posted:
Sep 12, 2014 - 6:49am |
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Proclivities wrote: I am shocked, shocked at the current flow of this thread!
We always take the path of least resistance. Our capacity for distraction is unlimited.
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Proclivities
Location: Paris of the Piedmont Gender:
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Posted:
Sep 12, 2014 - 6:39am |
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islander wrote: Oh, I'm sure the line will form at the door shortly.
I am shocked, shocked at the current flow of this thread!
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islander
Location: West coast somewhere Gender:
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Posted:
Sep 12, 2014 - 6:38am |
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Coaxial wrote: Thanks...Nice you have most of the morning free for a change.
Oh, I'm sure the line will form at the door shortly.
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Coaxial
Location: Comfortably numb in So Texas Gender:
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Posted:
Sep 12, 2014 - 6:35am |
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islander wrote: Second base.
Thanks...Nice you have most of the morning free for a change.
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Coaxial
Location: Comfortably numb in So Texas Gender:
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Posted:
Sep 12, 2014 - 6:34am |
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buzz wrote: Coaxial wrote: Watt? ohm my god. resistance is futile. Takes a lot of Joules to talk like that. Doesn't take Coulomb beau to understand that.
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islander
Location: West coast somewhere Gender:
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Posted:
Sep 12, 2014 - 6:30am |
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Coaxial wrote:Watt? Second base.
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buzz
Location: up the boohai
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Posted:
Sep 12, 2014 - 6:27am |
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Coaxial wrote: Watt? ohm my god. resistance is futile.
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Coaxial
Location: Comfortably numb in So Texas Gender:
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Posted:
Sep 12, 2014 - 6:23am |
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buzz wrote: Watt?
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buzz
Location: up the boohai
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Posted:
Sep 12, 2014 - 6:22am |
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Red_Dragon
Location: Dumbf*ckistan
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Posted:
Sep 11, 2014 - 3:59pm |
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cc_rider wrote: Strange. It's obviously a little stray voltage, but I don't see how it gets past the transformer built into the LED. Maybe a slight defect in that bulb. Have you rearranged the bulbs in the fixture, to see if it follows the bulb or stays with one socket?
Yup - even tried a different bulb, since they came in a four-pack - ONE of them always blinks. Even tried one bulb in each socket while leaving the others empty.
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cc_rider
Location: Bastrop Gender:
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Posted:
Sep 11, 2014 - 3:56pm |
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Red_Dragon wrote: Single fixture with three sockets - one connection for the entire fixture.
Strange. It's obviously a little stray voltage, but I don't see how it gets past the transformer built into the LED. Maybe a slight defect in that bulb. Have you rearranged the bulbs in the fixture, to see if it follows the bulb or stays with one socket?
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Red_Dragon
Location: Dumbf*ckistan
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Posted:
Sep 11, 2014 - 3:50pm |
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cc_rider wrote: Are the LED blubs in separate fixtures? I wonder if one of them is wired incorrectly, with hot and neutral reversed. I discovered that problem when replacing an old fixture: neutral-to-ground measured 15 volts or so. Turned out an unused switch was wired wrong.
c.
Single fixture with three sockets - one connection for the entire fixture.
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cc_rider
Location: Bastrop Gender:
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Posted:
Sep 11, 2014 - 3:48pm |
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Red_Dragon wrote: That explains it: there is no ground wire to any switch in this house. I guess we'll live with it; it's not dangerous. Weird how none of the other LEDs do this, tho.
Are the LED blubs in separate fixtures? I wonder if one of them is wired incorrectly, with hot and neutral reversed. I discovered that problem when replacing an old fixture: neutral-to-ground measured 15 volts or so. Turned out an unused switch was wired wrong. c.
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Red_Dragon
Location: Dumbf*ckistan
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Posted:
Sep 11, 2014 - 3:29pm |
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miamizsun wrote: That explains it: there is no ground wire to any switch in this house. I guess we'll live with it; it's not dangerous. Weird how none of the other LEDs do this, tho.
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miamizsun
Location: (3283.1 Miles SE of RP) Gender:
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Posted:
Sep 11, 2014 - 3:21pm |
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Red_Dragon wrote:Here's a strange...
I replaced the high-intensity bulbs in our kitchen light fixture with LEDs. They work great and actually provide significantly more light than the old bulbs but: ONE of them flashes about once per second when the switch is OFF.
wtf
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Red_Dragon
Location: Dumbf*ckistan
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Posted:
Sep 11, 2014 - 3:15pm |
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Here's a strange...
I replaced the high-intensity bulbs in our kitchen light fixture with LEDs. They work great and actually provide significantly more light than the old bulbs but: ONE of them flashes about once per second when the switch is OFF.
wtf
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DaveInSaoMiguel
Location: No longer in a hovel in effluent Damnville, VA Gender:
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Posted:
May 26, 2014 - 11:38am |
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mutepoint wrote: If the sensor is a 10k resistor, I'd imagine the voltage levels in use are much higher than microphone levels (that necessitate shielded wire)
That 10k resistor most likely a Thermistor (with a 10k nominal resistance at ambient temp) that feeds into an opamp comparator circuit that could be sensitive to noise and hum pickup. Also 10k is a much higher impedance than a balanced microphone circuit which is usually no more than 600 ohms and higher impedance lines are more likely to act like an antenna.
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Steve
Location: Around My Corner... and Up Yours Gender:
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Posted:
May 26, 2014 - 11:15am |
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mutepoint wrote:
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Steve
Location: Around My Corner... and Up Yours Gender:
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Posted:
May 26, 2014 - 11:03am |
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mutepoint wrote:Haven't looked at the specifics above , but I have located the answer. Your sensor is actually a device known as a thermistor. Resistance decreases with increasing temps. Combination of my comments and Dave's - larger gauge for sure, plus shielded for good measure. "Follow the equipment manufacturer’s recommendation for wire size and maximum length. For example, a note with one of the Tekmar solar controllers mentions that 18-gauge wire up to 1,000 feet long will provide a plus or minus ½ degree F accuracy for their standard 10K sensor."
Scroll down to the paragraphs of info above the chart of DC resistance vs temps Link here: http://www.plumbingengineer.com/may_12/solar.php
Any copper wire has an electrical resistance, which is added to the resistance of the sensor itself. A very long small-gauge wire can alter the apparent temperature that the sensor is reading. This effect is more prominent in lower value thermistors than in higher ones. So, when dealing with long runs of existing small-gauge wire, 10K sensors may be preferable to 1K. Follow the equipment manufacturer’s recommendation for wire size and maximum length. For example, a note with one of the Tekmar solar controllers mentions that 18-gauge wire up to 1,000 feet long will provide a plus or minus ½ degree F accuracy for their standard 10K sensor.
Signal interference The wire cable itself can affect the performance of a thermistor sensor. Long lengths of unshielded straight wire (commonly used for room thermostats) can act like an antenna. Interference from nearby power equipment can cause random "signals" to be induced in unprotected wiring such as this. This can cause the temperature reading to become unstable and jump around rapidly instead of settling on the actual temperature at the sensor. To prevent these unwanted signals, use metal conduit, shielded wire and twisted pairs whenever you can. Connect the metal shield to the “Common” terminal in the control box (the low voltage or sensor common). It is interesting to note that sensors with higher resistance (10K) are more sensitive to this kind of interference. Sensors that operate with a lower resistance range (1K) are less likely to be affected. So, when choosing temperature controls for an unshielded and noisy electrical environment, equipment compatible with lower sensor values might be preferable. HTH
Free pool? You, and your answer RAWK!!! No free pool, but I do owe you an adult beverage of your choice next time you swing through Arizona.
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